I_View300.zip: My favorite viewer. Fast, powerful, easy. Basic commands are: Space
bar=cycle forward through images in that directory. Backspace=Cycle backwards.
Enter=Full screen image. F=fit image to desktop. Keypade + and - keys=scale image
up or down 10% each keypress. B=start batch conversion. I recommend setting this
program as your default image viewer when double-clicking a file. But that bit is
optional if you prefer something else. ^_^
RanT's.zip: This is the zip with all the translation scripts. Right here let me say
something, I CANNOT STRESS THIS POINT ENOUGH, that these scripts are ONLY
GUIDES to use in translations, because we can't read japanese. The scripts will clue
you in to what the original Japanese said, but the scripts are themselves are only
paraphrasing the original, and often written by people who did not necessarily have a
perfect command of both English and Japanese.
So we will be heavily paraphrasing the script, rewording things so they flow better and
are more humorous and more enjoyable for western readers. Don't concern yourself
about preserving a single word of the scripts, say things in a way that you think works
best for the story and the readers who will ultimately see it.
Ranma Manga.txt: This file lists all the chapters of the Ranma manga, who's done what,
who's working on what, what's left to be done. It's the master list to keep track of
everything, and hence needs to be updated periodically. I'm giving you a chapter right
now, but this will be the only chapter that I 'assign' you, it's for practice. After you finish
this one and I critique it, you'll have to choose for yourself which chapters you'd like to
tackle for your official chapters. Use this file in conjunction with the script files to figure
out what is what, and what you would like to work on.
Give me a clear point to start the scans, and far enough ahead that I can keep you
well supplied and there won't be any lag time. The longest queue I have right now is 13
chapters, the shortest about 4. If you really don't care which ones you do, I can just
send you ones that are available, but I always give you the option of picking which
ones you want first.
RM29-08a.zip:
RM29-08b.zip: These two zips contain the practice chapter for you. This chapter is for
you to cut your teeth on, get a solid foundation on just what is needed to do these
translations the best way possible, and to experiment and find the best process that
works for you personally. The Directions explaination that I gave you is only a guide,
the way *I* personally do it. For everyone I'm sure there are slightly different ways to do
it that you'll find more to your liking, or you feel creates a better final result. Play with it,
have fun with it, that is after all what this is all about. ^_^
jpg5a.zip: This is our special gif converter that smooths the images down to just the
colors that are really there (B&W +4 grays), and reduces the file size by half. Great
little program. You should have a copy of my email to the team on the subject of gif
conversion at the end of The Directions file.
SHADE
::::::::::::::::::::::::::
Appendix C: Project conversion email (team version)
APPENDIX C: The conversion email (team version). When we made our big switchover
from jpg to gif for final pages (although working pages still had to be jpg for color depth
and antialiasing issues), this is the email I sent around to everyone explaining it.
Hello everyone!!!
I've got some very important news for you all! But this will take a little explaining to do
so please bear with me (Wei Jing you already know about this, and Shih-Schon this
won't really affect you).
From the very beginning of our Project, EvlNabiki & I have been striving to find the
best format to use for our scans. Now, from a logical understanding of how image
formats work, the best choice would seem to be the GIF file format. Gif is made for line
art and drawings like we're working on, while jpg is really more meant for photographs.
Unfortunately, every attempt we made to make these images into gifs failed miserably.
If any of you saw our project from day one, you might have seen the first three chapters
I posted (before I redid and reposted them) in our early attempts at gif, where we tried
to convert the pages manually into low-color gifs. Not only did it take forever, but it
looked AWFUL!
We finally had to give up on that and go to jpg, and since then, any attempt to convert
our pages into gif has only made them 2-4 time BIGGER than they were as jpgs! The
cause of this was that they were being converted into 256 grays, and had lots of color
static and wasted detail. But we could never find any way around it. You see, the
original pages we are scanning just don't have that much information on them. The
original prints are essentially Black & White, with about 4 levels of gray in the middle.
But since we couldn't really scan them that way (we tried, never could figure out how),
we were kind of stuck for it.
BUT! Wei Jing Guo has acquired from a helpful fan, and hence given to me, a simple
and effective solution!
The program is called djpeg.exe, its a DOS (BLECK!) program, but it's great at what it
does. It decompresses the jpegs, smooths the image down to just the colors that are
really there (B&W +4 grays), and converts it to gif in the process, which ultimately cuts
the file size of each page just about in HALF. And if you compare them side to side,
you'd be hard pressed to find even the slightest difference in what the pages look like.
It's really quite amazing.
SO! Armed with this new program, we're doing a complete conversion to .gif for all
finalized pages. What this means for all of you that there will be one small extra step
involved in translating, but it should drastically cut down email transmission time, so I
think in the final result it should speed things up.
Barring any unexpected complications, this how I foresee it working:
1. EvlNabiki and I scan things as normal, getting everything ready as we have before,
and then, before we send you a chapter, we will run it through the converter and send
you the gif files. This should cut upload and download times in half.
2. When you receive them, you'll need to convert them back to jpg in order to work on
them. Because they are composed of so few colors, it is likely that trying to work on
them in that format will disable certain useful functions, first and foremost would be
antialiasing when laying down text (I tried this in Paint shop pro so I know for certain
that in that program at least, a picture must have far more colors to use antialiasing).
BUT, you should already have a simple program to perform this task. I sent all of you
I_VIEW, I hope you kept it, cause it'll do this in no time flat. All you have to do is load
up I_VIEW, hit "B", for batch conversion, select the gifs I sent you, tell it to convert
them to jpg, and it'll do them all. An important note on this, it is ESSENTIAL that when
you are setting up the batch conversion, that in the options you set the save quality for
it's highest level, meaning perfect quality and zero compression, in order to pretect the
image quality of the page. This will make the images HUGE, 3-400k each, but once
you're done you won't have to keep them that way.
3. Working on the jpg copies, do the translation normally, and then, when you're
finished, run the completed pages through the converter before sending them to me.
I'm sending all of you a zip file attached to this email. It contains several little programs,
but the one we're principally concerned with is djpeg.exe.
Here is how you use it. Move or copy the djpeg.exe program into a temporary
directory, and then copy all the image files you want to convert into the same directory.
Then open an MS-DOS box (EEEEK! ^_-), go to that directory, and type this precise
command:
djpeg -color 8 -dither none -gif *.jpg
This should start a batch conversion of all files in that directory with the .jpg extension.
If you want to do just one file in particular, replace the * with the name of the file you
want to convert. This should cut the size of each page down dramatically. I usually got
around 50% of the size it was as a jpg at 80% quality, and 25% the size of a jpg at
100% quality.
Then of course send the final gifs back to me, once again cutting upload and
download times in half.
ISN'T THAT HANDY?!?!?!
I compared over a hundred pages before and after this conversion process, and the
difference is so small as to typically be unnoticeable. I'm really thrilled to finally have a
way to properly present the colors on the actual page and nothing else. This is also a
really good fix for the gamma problems we've had up till now. Double whammy solution!
:D
One note on this, if anyone tries to do something unusual, like Kyle Emmerson's
colorized page, DON'T run it through the gif converter, it'll really mangle the image.
If any of you have any problems or questions about this whatsoever, feel free to ask
away. I'm sure we can sort out any difficulties and get this all running smoothly and
better than ever! YAY! ^_^
Thanks for your attention! Hope to hear from all of you soon! ^_^
SHADE
:::::::::::::::::::::::
Appendix D: i_view revised directions
APPENDIX D: i_view revised Direction. Very near the end of the project, we discovered
that the latest versions of i_view can do all the same things that djpeg did, but even
faster and without having to muck around with a DOS program. Here are the directions
that I wrote to Dave Peterson on this subject.
ALRIGHTY!
When doing Ranma pages and converting them back and forth between gif and jpg
using I_View, this is the process you need to use to do them at zero picture
degredation.
:::Gif to jpg:::
Load up the I_View program, and hit 'B' for batch conversion. This will bring up a new
window with various settings. In the upper right window you'll need to navigate to where
your original scan gif pages are, select them all, and add them to the batch set. Adding
them will move them over to the upper left window.
Along the bottom you'll see an option for file type, which should probably already say
jpeg files, but if it doesn't, you'll need to change it. Next to the file type setting is a
button for 'options'. Click on that and make sure that the 'Save Quality' setting is
pushed all the way up to 100. This will make a huge file, but it'll be crystal clear and
high color so you can work with it.
Also remember to set your output directory so you know where the program put the
output files. Also make sure that the output directory isn't the same directory where the
original are, cause the program overwrites files without asking.
Don't forget whenever you resave a file while working on it, it also has to be at 100%.
Once the pages have been finished, I_View can once again be used to return the final
pages to gif with zero loss of picture quality.
:::jpg to Gif:::
This process starts the same as gif to jpg. Load up, hit 'B', and select all the finished
pages and add them to the batch.
Obviously this time you'll need to change the output file type to gif. Since this is a gif,
the save quality setting doesn't apply.
Here is where things start getting different. Along the bottom right of the batch
window, there is a button for 'advanced options'. Hit that. This will bring up a new
window with lots of neato things you can do to your files during the batch conversion.
The main concern in this window is the color depth. The color depth options are along
the lower left side of the advanced options window. Select 'Custom' for color depth, and
enter into the window '8', for 8 colors. That's all we'll need for this. As it is that's more
colors than exist in the original page.
For most conversions that's all you need to do. Close the advanced window and start
the batch. BUT, since you're working on the scans at their original scan size, you can
also use this batch function to reduce the pages down to their final size of 800 pixels
across. In the upper left of the advanced options you can set reduction sizes. The only
size you enter is the 800 width, and then click on both 'Use Resample' and 'preserve
aspect ratio', and that'll make the shrink down very smooth, and the program will figure
out the appropriate height distance automatically.
NOTE: Do NOT use the shrink down function of I_View if you've already converted the
pages in a seperate step. It needs to all be done in one big conversion. If the 8-color
pages go through the I_View reduction, the low color settings will mangle the image.
And then send the finished gifs to me! Easy as can be. :D
SHADE :)
::::::::::::::::::::::
Appendix E: Manga editing tips email
APPENDIX E: Manga Editing Tips email. About 2/3rds through the project, several of
our translators had switched to doing 100% translations including all sound effects.
Even some not doing 100% were trying things harder than they'd done before. This is
the email I wrote to the whole team, giving all the graphics editing advice I could think
of.
HELLO AGAIN EVERYONE!
I've had quite a few people on the project ask me for tips on how to edit the Ranma
pages, and more specifically those tricky sound effects in the background for those
trying to do a really complete translation.
So many people have asked for hints that I decided it would be more efficient for me
to just write one email to everyone on the subject. For some of you this will all be
repeat, but I'm sending it to everyone just in case.
Finally, these tips are all specific for use on Paint Shop Pro, cause that's the program
I use. For anyone using other programs, like Photoshop, quite likely there will be a
similar function in it, but you'll have to figure the corrolations out on your own. Also I've
got to warn you this email is INCREDIBLY long. Unless you're really interested in this
information, you can feel free to skip it. It contains nothing but graphics editing tips.
Wei Jing and Shih-Schon you can both ignore this message entirely. Doesn't really
effect you.
Alrighty!
When starting a page, I always clear out the edges first. I find the easiest way to do
this is with the 'shapes' tool. That tool looks like a little hollow box at the very bottom of
the tool bar. Set your foreground color for white, and just draw long, thin boxes up and
down the edges of the page, quickly and easily wiping out all the leftover bits on the
side. It's alright to lose a few pixels of the art, no one will ever miss them.
If there are backwards page numbers or book numbers, they need to be flipped back
to straight. To do this requires the 'selection tool'. That tool looks like the shapes tool,
except it's a box made up of a dotted line. You draw a selection box around the
numbers, then hit CONTROL + M, for mirror selected error. That'll reverse the numbers
back to straight.
We try to replace the kanji characters in the Ranma book numbers that appear along
the top of some pages. We pick random neat looking fonts, cut out those first two
characters, and replace them with 'Ranma'. The font size of 36 fits the size of the rest
of the book number most precisely.
Up next, is the question of the dialogue bubbles.
If you look at our pages for book 38, we've always strived to get the dialogue to fit as
precisely as possible into the bubble it's supposed to go in. Especially with very narrow
bubbles, which you get a lot since japanese and chinese is written vertically, it can be
very hard. Leading to a lot of people to use a lot of hyphens or turn words on their side,
which we try to avoid.
But in PSP there's a simple solution to all these problems. It's called the 'deformation
tool'. The tool looks like a little tic tac toe board or target site, it's right underneath the
magnifying glass tool. When you use the text tool, all you need to do is type in the text
you want in a rough approximation of the shape of the dialogue bubble. Once the text
appears on the page, it should appear as a 'floating selection', with the glowing
selection border hugging the letters perfectly. Once you have anything surrounded by a
selection border, the deformation tool becomes available.
What it allows you to do is squeeze, stretch, and rotate anything selected till it
perfectly fits into the space you need it to fit into. This is also very handy for angling
text that needs to fit on a surface that isn't perfectly horizontal, like a Panda sign, or a
sign in the background. This is an extremely useful tool you should all play around with.
It'll come in handy for other things too.
One rule to keep in mind when using resizing or the deformation tool, always create
text or sound effects significantly larger than you need them, and then shrink them
down. Don't start small and enlarge them, cause that'll create very soft, fuzzy edges to
whatever text you're laying down.
Also, my personal choice for dialogue text font is "Comic Sans MS". It looks just like
the font Viz uses, and is very easy to read. If anyone wants to use this font but doesn't
have it, just ask me and I'll send it to you. ^_^
Now for the most basic translations, that's all you need. But a number of people have
been trying to tackle those really tricky sound effects buried in the artwork in the
background. Those are an entire other level of difficulty, and I'll address them now.
Right off, there are the simple sound effects. Any sound effect that appears mostly or
entirely against a white background is almost as simple as dialogue to replace. Just
wipe it clean and right in a new sound effect in whatever font you like. Once again the
deformation tool comes in VERY handy here. Allowing you to quickly and intuitively
rotate your sound effect to match the rotation of the original, and fit it in neatly without
having to guess at the rotation over and over again. Just swing it around till it looks
right, and hit 'apply' to make it stick. Also, just like with the dialogue bubbles, start
things larger than you need them, then use the deformation tool to shrink them down
into size. Now you can rotate and shrink them into shape in one simple step! :D
Next up is the really tricky stuff. Trying to get sound effects and titles to smooth
integrate into art-heavy backgrounds. This can be very hard and require quite a bit of
trickery. This will get a bit complicated, so I'll go through how we do it step by step.
Obviously always feel free to experiment with this stuff to find your own favored way.
First off, we must get rid of the original sound effect. There's no way to avoid this or
automate it to any great degree, it's simple a matter of zooming way in on the sound
effect (zooming being that magnifying glass tool), and using the single paint brush tool,
and as wide a paint area as you can, neatly white out the original sound effect as
precisely as possible without messing up the art around it.
A point here, always play with the size and settings on your tool control. There is the
'control box' for most of the painting tools, that you have to open to play with tool
settings. If you've never tried to open the controls box, you can toggle it off and on with
the button to the left or above of the little rainbow in the options bar (that being the
OTHER control bar besides the tools bar).
Anyway, once the original sound effect has been whited out, you'll be left with the
obvious problem of the sound effect-shaped white scar it leaves across the artwork.
Dealing with this is quite tricky.
First off, for the parts that were carved out of pure black areas, that's easy. Use the
regular paint tool, black color, and fill in that space with black up as close as you can
do any white or patterned areas the black runs up against. If it's a large black area you
can speed this up by using the shaptes tool and draw big black boxes over those
areas. For white areas that's easy you just blank them out and that's it.
It gets hard when patterns come into the equation. The way I usually deal with
patterns is to find another area that has the same type of pattern, and use the 'area
copy' tool. This tool looks like a double paintbrush, just under the regular paint brush.
The way it works is you use the controls box to set the paint size you want, then RIGHT
click on the area you want to copy from, and then left click in the spot you want to copy
to, and duplicate the pattern over the new spot.
Absolute perfection is hopefully not required on this, cause you can use the new
sound effect you'll be putting over the area to cover up places where the patterns and
the solid black and white colors don't seem to quite match up perfectly. You only need
to create the IMPRESSION that the pattern continues seamlessly behind the sound
effects, you don't actually need to draw them in perfectly.
Another problem you may encounter when snipping out the japanese sound effects is
that they'll slice through lines in the art. I don't know about you, but I can't draw a
straight line freehand to save my life. But PSP has a great line tool. The line drawing
tool is quite easy to spot, it's just a dash or straight line just above the shapes drawing
tool. Using the controls box, you can set the line width you need, and whether the line
is 'normal' or 'bezier'. Normal is obviously just a straight line you start where you want
it, and then drag it to where you want it to end. Bezier lines are trickier, but make
drawing smooth curves easy. You lay them out like a normal line, but then you can
'bend' them in the middle. The way it works is that you click twice on the line. Each click
allows you to pull the line out of shape, until you find the curve you want. You need to
click toward the lines starting point first, then toward the finishing point to define your
curve. This one is mighty tricky to master, but with a little practice you can get the hang
of it.
So using the line tool you can fill the borken lines back in. You'll probably have to be a
lot more precise fixing the lines than fixing the patterns, cause sometimes cut lines are
way off to the side and can't be practically covered up by the new sound effect.
In rare instances sound effects will be against a random seeming 'fuzz background'.
For an example of this consult page RM38-036. For such problems using the area copy
tool will be far less effective or convincing. For such problems using the 'airbrush tool'
is the solution we employ. The airbrush tool looks like a little aerosol spray can on the
tool bar. Using the control box you can adjust the density and speed of the air brush
effect. We usually have at a pretty sparse setting (Opacity: 28 Density: 13 Steps: 28),
that allows us to brush over and area over and over again, and gradually build up the
fuzzy dark and light areas in a way that better match the background.
OK! Finally there's the big important final step, actually putting in the new sound
effect. With the stuff you've done from above, you should now have moved in the edges
of a sound effect scar as close to each other as you practically can without really
amazing drawing talent (which I personally don't have at all).
Putting sound effects over the artwork introduces a new problem. When laying text
against the artwork, the sides of the letters will blend into the artwork wherever it's
black. As any of you that have looked at our book 38 pages can see, the solution to the
problem is to create a clean white border around the letters before pasting them into
the area you need. Here's how we do it:
First off you, need to create a new, blank image to work with, seperate from the active
page. When you're ready to create your new sound effect, you write it into the blank
page first. Leave the text in the floating selection phase so you can play with it. Then
you go to the options row along the top and click on 'Selection', then 'Modify', then
'expand'. If you want to do this quickly the keyboard command for it is ALT-S-M-E, and
then select how many pixels you want your white border to be. For small sound effects,
1 or 2 pixels will do, for really big ones, sometimes 3, 4 or even 5 pixels wide.
Remember you want to start larger and then shrink to fit.
If your sound effect is going to end up being a simple straight line, then this is all you
need to do. Grow the selection to take in some of the white around it, then hit
CONTROL+C for copy, move to your page in progress, and hit CONTROL+E, for paste
as a floating selection. And bingo your new sound effect appears over your page. Use
the deformation tool to rotate, squeeze, and stretch it till it all fits perfectly.
To cover up the most territory, and hide our trickery with the backgrounds, we use
very thick fonts, with lots of thick black lines and very little white space to show through
to what we're trying to hide. Typically we use either 'Comicbook', or my new favorite,
'Boink LET'. If you don't have these fonts and would like to have them, just ask and I'll
send them.
OK, that's for simple straight line sound effects. But sometimes it's harder than that. If
you have a very oddly shaped area of art that you want to cover up with your sound
effect, you'll have to do the sound effect one letter at a time, and paste each one of
them in precisely, deforming and rotating each one to get it right where you need it to
cover up whatever it is you're hiding.
The way we do this is to start in our clean seperate page, and write in the letters we
need with a space between each of them. Then we undo the selection, and make a new
selection box all the way around the letter we want to use. Then we hit CONTROL+T,
for 'set transparent color'. For us we use the background color, which for us is white, as
the transparent color. What this does is cut all the white out of the selection area, and
create a selection area that perfectly hugs the letter you want to play with. Then you
can expand the selection to get a white border just like you did before, and cut and
paste in that one letter and play with it however you need.
Another variant you can play around with in this is if you want to have a hollow font.
That is a hollow black outline of a letter surrounding a white center. Good examples of
this can be found on pages RM38-041 & RM38-042. There are two easy ways to
accomplish this effect. You can create a seperate page, using black as your
background color, then write your letters in white, expand the selection as you did
before, and paste that into your page. Or you can start on your white page, write in
black, expand the selection, then at the top select 'Color' and the 'Negative image'. This
will reverse all the colors in the selected area, turning your black with white border
letters into black around hollow white centers letters. Either will work perfectly well.
Finally, sometimes you might want to bend and twist your sound effects for humorous
or dramatic effects. Two good examples of this can be found on page RM38-013.
Here's how we do that. Just with the other sound effects, we write them first into the
clean seperate page. Then we draw one large box around all the letters we wish to play
with. PSP cannot deform the selection areas along with the letters inside them so you
need a large selected area around the letters so your distortion effects have room to
take effect. So once you have the letters all surrounded by a big box, you go back to
the top and select 'IMAGE' and then 'DEFORMATIONS'. You can select one
deformation, or use the deformation browser to cycle through them till you find one you
like. Using those deformations you can accomplish a variety of neat effects, playing
around with the letters in all the open room of your blank page. I won't bother to explain
what all the deformations do, just experiement with them on your own.
Once you've played with your letters to your hearts delight, make a big box around
them, and once again use the transparent color command to get a selection area that
perfectly hugs your letters, expand the selection to get a white border if you feel such a
border is necessary, or reverse the letters with negative image if that's the effect you
desire, copy and paste into your page, and use the deformation tool to rotate and
squeeze into the perfect place you want.
WHEW! Gyah I've been working on this email for 3 1/2 hours! o_O
I DO rattle on endlessly, don't I? ^^;;;
Well anyway, I hope this satisfies all the questions everyone was asking me about
how to accomplish certain effects during the editing process. If anyone has any further
questions, or needs clarification on any of the techniques I outlined above, feel free to
ask me!
SHADE :)
:::::::::::::::::::::
Appendix F: History and methods of Scanning email
APPENDIX F: History and Methods of Manga Scanning email. This is a recent addition
that I wrote up just in the last couple of days in response to a question asked by Bryan
Porter, one of our most vocal fans. He was trying to duplicate our sharp results in
scanning manga, and was having trouble with it. Here is my reply:
>> >Bryan
>I do have one separate question. You mention in your intros that
>one of your helpers pointed out some things you were doing wrong
>with the scans so you went back and redid them. *What* did you
>change? I've been making some attempts at scanning in manga
>and the results have been less than optimal. B&W and greyscale
>scans seem to be a lot harder to get right than color. Color is
>much more forgiving.
Oh dear. That's a complicated story. Hope you've got a while to listen to me babble
about history. ^^
If you don't care about history and just want to skip to the final process, I've written the
final process down at the bottom. Even that is pretty long all by itself.
When we first started in February, we were new to scanning in general, and were just
toying around with it mostly. Took a lot of experimentation to end up with the process
that gives us the very clean scans we have today.
Realize that everything I say here is tailored to our scanners and our programs. I don't
know what kind of machine you have so it may not work exactly the same way.
Anyway, (enter big booming voice from the sky) IN THE BEGINNING, THERE WAS
MANGA, AND SCANNER, AND LITTLE CLUE WHAT THE HELL WE WERE DOING.
^_-
We started scanning with flat settings on the scanner. That means we didn't change
anything, and just let it scan things in as close to actual reproduction as possible.
Unfortunately, this is a very bad idea of B&W&Gray manga. Right off the bat, you get a
very light bleed-through problem, where you see light shadows of the backing pages
showing through your page cause of the intensely bright light involved in the scanning.
Also they're HUGE! Like 2 megs per page! (my scanner automatically saves things to
jpg format at 100% quality.
Also with the basic scan method, white is not quite white, black is not quite black, and
everything looks a bit fuzzy and less than ideal. Our first try at fixing this was to take
each page, and first convert them to gifs (256 color gifs was all we could do at the
time), still huge size. Then we took them into Neopaint, which is a crappy old dos
program, and converted them down to 16-colors greyscale. The conversion never was
really good, and it turned all those 'almost white' light gray bleed-throughs into an
amorphous gray fuzz that spackled the whole page. Also black wasn't really black, but
5 layers of almost-black. What we did was, one page at a time, manual adjust the
palette so the bottom two layers of almost white were really white, the top three layers
of black were really black, and then reload the palette and NOT adjust for the change.
This reset the colors so the background was really white, black was black, etc. This is
NOT the method you want to use. First off, it takes FOREVER! One page at a time, with
loads of monotonous, repetitive crap. And the result is mediocre at best. Lose a LOT of
resolution. Playing with the settings in such a manual, haphazard way produces
passable results, but not ideal. Nothing even close to the crystal clean reproduction we
got later.
Enter attempt #2!
From there, we abandoned gifs and moved on to working with jpgs. They were big, but
not unmanageably big.
The only way to move on to the jpgs was to somehow manage to create the same
effects of white is really white and black is really black that we'd done manually before
right in the scanning stage.
:::Big rule #1::: Always try to create as much of your final desired result right in the
scanner. Adjusting it later is never the ideal way to do it.
Here's how we finally cracked the white is white and bleed-through problems. In our
scanner program there are all sorts of settings for exposure, color, gamma, all that fun
stuff. We started by cranking up the exposure setting to 140%. What that does is create
a very light scan. It eliminates the bleed-through, cause it shifts everything very toward
white. So white is really white, but all blacks are now a fuzzy icky gray.
The way to beat THAT is to drop the gamma way down. We can do this right in our
scanners using the gamma adjustment setting. Gamma is different from brightness.
Brightness would make your nice clean white an icky gray, but if your high exposure
creates really pure white color, the gamma will leave it white. We dropped the gamma
down to 40%. What that did was blend the fuzzy gray way down till in melded into one
color again, seeming to be solid black again.
Now there is one serious problem with this. That 'apparent black' isn't REALLY black.
It's actually 20 different levels of almost black, created by gamma trickery. For the first
1/3 of our project, we had a constant problem with this cause we left things in jpg
format. You see, gamma settings are different on everyone's computer. It's created by a
weird combination of monitor, video card, and internal software settings. So what
looked like true black on my machine, might still be fuzzy gray on someone else's
machine. Or even superblack, dark and fuzzy with light gray details destroyed. This
was a thorn in our side for a long time.
Finally the way we cracked it was by our gif conversion. We knew all along that the
ideal format for our scans was gif, not jpg. Gifs are meant for low color, line-art style
drawings, exactly like we've been working on. But every attempt we made to convert
failed cause we didn't know how to drop the color depth of the scans. When we
converted them it made them into 256 color gifs. So instead of blending the 20-levels of
almost-black into one true color, it left them intact, and just made the pictures even
bigger, solving nothing.
You see, there just isn't that much information on the pages we're scanning. The
Ranma manga is actually printed in B&W plus about 4 levels of gray. All other apparent
shading is created by illusionary patterns in the artwork that trick the eye into seeing
shading that isn't really there.
The crack to this was the jpg to gif conversion utility we discovered. We started doing
this with a dos program, but we later discovered we could do the same thing even more
easily with the latest versions of our favorite viewer, I_View32 (version 3.0 or 3.5). We
drop the color depth to a scant 8 colors. Which is actually 2 more than are even really
there. But we create some artificial layers of gray by shrinking the pages down. Which
leads me into:
:::Big Rule #2::: Always scan big, REALLY big, and then shrink down later. Everything
always looks better in the shrink-down. Standard scan size for us is 300dpi.
SO! Here comes the final process. This'll get pretty detailed.
1: We start in the scanner. To eliminate page-fuzz and bleed through and to create true
whites, we crank up scan exposure to 140%. To compensate for the light gray blacks
this creates, we drop our gamma correction down to 40%.
Note: at least in our scanner equipment, we needed to reset the gamma settings each
time we started a new batch of scans and then drop it down again. Gamma seems to be
sensitive to the color levels on the preview page, so the settings from your previous
batch of scans can mess up a new batch if you don't reset it and drop it down again
before each new round of scanning.
Note2: To save time, we only made one initial preview scan of the chapter we were
scanning in order to properly calibrate the gamma settings mentioned above. Then we
made one big selection area that would definitely get the entire page plus plenty on the
sides. That way we could sweep the selection area from one side to the other, moving
the book to match, and get each page one after another just scan, scan, scan, without
wasting time on preview pages. The excess can be cropped out later, and that takes
less time that previewing every page and carefully placing a precise scan area.
2: Scan all the pages at once. One after another, moving your selection area, so the
settings stay consistent. Get the whole chapter either right or wrong at once. ^_-
Once you experiment with it a while you should be able to do this confidently.
Remember the settings I give you may not be right for your machine. They are what we
personally used. Oh yeah make sure you set your scanner to scan in grayscale when
you're scanning grayscale images. It may seem the same to have color on, but it isn't.
And grayscale will probably be 10 times faster. It sure is on our machine.
3: Take the scanned pages and pull them into a paint program of some kind. Load them
all up, and crop out as much of the excess junk around the edges as possible. I use
Paint Shop Pro for this. Great program. Remember when saving jpg's that you always
save them at 100% quality until you're done with them, or the quality will degrade
FAST.
4: For us at this point there would only be one step left. But depending on how you do
things, it may be more complex for you. The next step is to shrink down your pages to
the final size you want to use. Important note on this: Whenever you are reducing
pages, only do it when the source material is a jpg. The low colors of the compressed
gifs will not reduce properly. If you do things with different programs for us, you'll need
to reduce first.
After that, and for us in the same batch conversion step, we convert the pics to gifs,
and drop the color depth down to a scant 8 colors. If it's a more complicated grayscale
kind of page than Ranma typically is, you might need to make it 16 colors instead.
Anything more than 16, and you're going to have some huge, fuzzy pages.
Now the magic of the gif conversion is what it does to the colors. Reducing to 8 colors
forces the program to pick a near-match color for everything in the picture, instead of
perfectly preserving the original scan colors (which is what makes the thing huge). And
it does it based on YOUR gamma settings. So all those 20-levels of almost black
become ONE color, real black. White is all one solid white, and the few levels of gray in
the middle all get broken up into their proper precise colors, creating a sharpness and
precision that wouldn't be possible any other way.
If you use I_View32 to do this, the way you do it is to load up I_View. Hit 'b' for batch,
then select all your original jpg pages. Select gif as the output format, and the select
'advanced options' in the batch window. In advanced options, we set the shrink down
size. For us it was 800 pixels across. So we'd only entire in the width, and leave the
height blank, then turn on both 'resample' to make it smooth, and 'aspect ratio' to force
the program to figure out how tall it should be to make it 800 pixels wide.
Then below that we select 'custom color depth', and enter in 8 colors. And since these
are japanese comics and read backwards to the english way, I'd also include in the
batch settings a horizontal flip (then manually go back to all the title pages and flip
them back and resave them). Then start the whole beautiful batch going and get all
sorts of steps down at once (for much of the project we did flip, reduce, resave, and
convert as seperate steps, making things vastly more difficult, cause we didn't realize
there was an easier way).
If you don't have I_View32, get it. It's the coolest viewer for windows ever. It's the
perfect combination of capabilities and lightning speed. Without all the extra crap super
complicated paint programs need to load up every time. Download it free at:
http://stud1.tuwien.ac.at/~e9227474/
WHEW! And after all that, you should hopefully end up with a very crisp, clean, sharp
looking scan, with pure blacks, pure whites, and sharp lines. ^^
In the beginning it would take us a solid hour per chapter to scan. By the end we'd
streamlined it down so much we could do one in 25-30 minutes.
If you have any more questions about it, don't hesitate to ask. :D
>Take care,
>Bryan
SHADE :)
:::::::::::::::::::
WHEW! God I talk a lot, don't I? But that's it! Well, that's not REALLY it, we could
probably say a lot more, but hell we've been at this for hours now. And that's not even
including all the time EvlNabiki & I spent writing up most of this stuff to begin with. I
think this is plenty. ^^
*wavies*
Bye! ^_^
SHADE & EvlNabiki :)
gurf@erols.com
Part I of the Ranma FAQ
......
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